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A plus-size bra that does not stop at L

The fuller the cup, the smaller the choice. And when there is something, it is often one of two things: a firm underwired bra that presses all day, or a soft wire-free one that has given up after two hours. The idea that it has to be one of those two is simply wrong. Support does not come from an underwire, but from the width of the underband and from a cup that holds its shape.

Where the support comes from when there is no underwire

The underband carries. Not your straps, and not the underwire. The band runs all the way around your ribcage and so spreads the weight across far more skin than two pieces of fabric on your shoulders. The fuller the cup, the harder that band has to work, and the wider it therefore needs to be.

The cup holds the shape. A soft, unmoulded cup folds itself around the volume and then gives way. A pre-moulded cup does the opposite: it already has a shape and keeps the line smooth, even under a thin top.

The side panel keeps it together. Without an underwire, volume wants to escape sideways, towards your underarm. A reinforced side panel catches that without anything digging in. This is exactly the difference between a wire-free bra that works at a D cup and above, and one that does not.

The mistake almost everyone makes

Ordering a size up "just to be safe". It feels logical and it backfires: you get a looser band, the band rides up, and the weight moves onto your straps. Then they cut into your shoulders and you conclude the bra is too small, when in fact it is too loose.

If you fall between two sizes, go down a band size and up a cup size. That is the same cup volume with a band that does its job.

What we have in larger sizes

The Luma Forma Bra 2.0 is the model for this. Thirteen sizes from XS up to and including 3XL, with in-between sizes for anyone who falls just between two. Integrated foam cups that hold their shape, side reinforcement against bulging, a wide underband, no underwire, and a three-row hook fastening with adjustable, detachable straps so you set the fit yourself.

The Luma Contour runs from S up to and including XXL in twelve colours. Lighter in construction, without side reinforcement, so it is more comfortable if what you mainly want is to be rid of the pressure and you need less shape. You pull this one on like a top: there is no fastening, and the straps are fixed rather than adjustable.

If you are looking for a classic cup size with lift, the VitaSculpt Push-Up has 40 sizes: band sizes 75 up to and including 110, and cups B up to and including H. Which cups exist in each band size varies, so not every combination is available. Check the product page to see what there is in your band size.

Measure again, even if you think you know your size

With a shape-retaining cup, size counts for more than with a soft one, because the cup does not adapt. And most women have been wearing a band that is too loose for years. Use the size guide: underbust and bust measurement, about two minutes, and you get your size in our fit instead of in your previous brand's.

After that you have 14 days to change your mind. Whether a bra in your size really works is something you only notice after an ordinary day, not in a fitting room.

Read on

• The best wire-free bra for larger sizes: what to look for
• Why the back band decides whether your bra sits comfortably
• Bra straps cutting into your shoulders? This is the real cause
• Do you fall between two sizes?
• Spilling out of your bra? What goes wrong and what helps

Frequently asked questions

Is there such a thing as a wire-free bra for larger cup sizes?

Yes, but the model decides whether it works. You need a wide underband that carries the weight, a pre-moulded cup that holds its shape, and a reinforced side panel against bulging. A soft bralette with no shape offers little hold on a full cup.

What sizes do your bras go up to?

The Luma Forma Bra 2.0 runs from XS up to and including 3XL, with in-between sizes for anyone who falls between two. The Luma Contour goes from S up to and including XXL. The VitaSculpt Push-Up has 40 sizes: band sizes 75 up to and including 110, and cups B up to and including H, with the available cups differing per band size.

Should I take a size up if I am unsure?

No, that usually makes it worse. A looser band rides up and shifts the weight onto your straps. If you fall between two sizes, go down a band size and up a cup size: the same cup volume with a band that does its job.

Why do my straps cut into my shoulders?

Because your band is carrying too little. In a well-fitting bra the underband does most of the work and the straps only stabilise. If they cut in, it is the band that is too loose, not the straps that are too tight.